STUDIO CITY. Plunge into the din of light and sound that is Art's and you'll be rewarded with the best deli food in the Valley. Locals rate the enormous corned beef and pastrami sandwiches on homemade rye as the best on the West Coast. Other house specialties include the matzo-ball soup and the "I Want It All" chicken soup, which comes in a huge bowl packed with kreplach (Yiddish raviolis), noodles, kasha (whole oats), rice, chicken, carrots, and a big, matzo ball. Don't skip dessert - the iced cookie and apple strudel are especially tasty.

BEVERLY HILLS. There are plenty of New Yorkers who feel misplaced amid the landscaped yards and sparkling diamonds of Beverly Hills, but they can always get a taste of home by visiting Barney Greengrass. The famous smoked sturgeon, sable, and salmon make great lunch choices, as does the chopped liver spread on a bagel (a New York-style bagel, no less).

NORTHRIDGE. Although the location is unassuming, this is <i>the</i> deli in Los Angeles, according to aficionados. If plain brick walls, green booths, and framed pictures don't wow you, the food certainly will. Sky-high reuben sandwiches are rumored to be the best this side of New York, and eggs Benedict at breakfast and meatloaf at dinner win raves as well. Brent's doesn't serve alcohol, but if you desire a frosty brew, just eat in the pub next door ­ your food will be passed to you through the "beer window."

BEVERLY HILLS. This coffee shop exudes small-town atmosphere, which is a precious commodity among Beverly Hills' high-class shops and trendy eateries. Relaxing respites are made all the more enjoyable with fresh egg salad and mushroom melt sandwiches. Make sure to savor the quiet getaway with a warm chocolate chip cookie before you head back out to rub elbows with models and movie stars.

SANTA MONICA. Roomy and modern with comfortable booths and a dining counter, this "deli's" menu more closely resembles that of a European brasserie or an upscale diner. The menu is expansive, offering French bistro-style and American-comfort food, and, yes, Jewish-deli standards. Breads are freshly baked, and there is a cappuccino/espresso bar.